Guide

Laser photo too dark: causes and fix order

Faces turn into black masks, hair becomes a solid patch, the whole piece is heavier than the screen. Work through the causes in order.

Reviewed by the Vextrify team, tested in our own laser workshops · Updated · How we test

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01

Rule out the cheap causes first

Work from the file to the machine. Fix the tone of the image first, because it costs nothing to change. Check the line interval second. Only then spend scrap material on a test grid. Changing the machine before you have fixed the file leaves the real cause in place.

  • 1. Tone of the file
  • 2. Line interval against the spot
  • 3. Burn amount from a test grid
02

Cause 1: a dark source with closed shadows

A photo whose shadows are already near black has no room to get lighter on the material. Dark hair, a dark jacket and a night scene turn into solid patches after dithering, because every dark tone becomes dense dots that merge. Open the live preview in Photo Studio, pick the profile for your material, which sets starting brightness, contrast and gamma, and raise the shadows until detail is visible in the dark regions.

  • Dark tones merge into solid areas
  • Lift shadows in the live preview
  • Start from the material profile's brightness and gamma
Open Photo Studio
03

Cause 2: line interval smaller than the spot

If the line interval is smaller than the laser's spot, neighbouring lines overlap and every tone burns darker than intended. The interval in mm is 25.4 divided by DPI, so 254 DPI is 0.1 mm. Compare that with your spot size and widen the interval if the lines overlap. The right figure for your machine comes from a test grid.

  • Overlapping lines darken every tone
  • Interval (mm) = 25.4 ÷ DPI
  • Widen it if it is below the spot size
Line density vs DPI
04

Cause 3: dot gain and a wrong profile

Dot gain means the burn spreads past the dot, so the engraving is always darker than the screen. A file prepared for light birch will be too heavy on a material that darkens easily, and a file prepared as a positive will look wrong on dark acrylic, where the mark is lighter than the surface. Pick the profile that matches the material, compare dithering methods in the preview, and use Invert for dark materials.

  • The burn spreads, so tones go darker
  • Match the profile to the material
  • Invert for light marks on dark surfaces
05

Cause 4: too much burn for this material

If the file and spacing are right and the result is still too dark, the burn itself is too strong for this material. Engrave a material test grid on a scrap piece, a matrix of speed and power fields, choose the field that gives the tonal range you want and save it. This is the only place the numbers should come from. If the result is flat and grey instead of dark, see the page on muddy photo engraving.

  • Test grid on scrap of the same material
  • Save the best field as your starting point
  • Grey and flat is a different problem
Material test grid

Common questions

Why is my laser engraving darker than the photo on screen?

Dot gain: the burn spreads past each dot, so tones come out darker than they look on screen. A line interval smaller than the laser's spot makes it worse. Lighten the file and check spacing before you change machine settings.

Should I just lower the power?

Only after the file and the line interval are right, and then by testing on scrap. Copying a power figure from another machine rarely works, since it depends on the laser and the material.

Why are hair and shadows solid black?

Dark tones in the source become dense dots that merge after dithering. Raise the shadows in the preview until detail shows in the dark areas.

Is a muddy result the same as too dark?

No. A muddy result is flat and grey with weak contrast. There is a separate page for it.